DAY IN DAY OUT 2010

2011

2011-01-02T10:21:00.001+08:00

THIS BLOG IS DEAD
THANKS FOR VIEWING

HAPPY NEW YEAR

2011-01-02T09:35:00.009+08:00

Horsnell's Birthday

2010-12-29T13:05:00.004+08:00

Disposable Camera : Bali

2010-12-29T12:31:00.005+08:00

Disposable Camera : Japan

2010-12-29T12:00:00.003+08:00

OSAKA

2010-11-25T20:35:00.014+08:00

KYOTO

2010-11-23T17:57:00.009+08:00

TOKYO II

2010-11-22T17:28:00.011+08:00

TOKYO I

2010-11-19T17:45:00.034+08:00

Orange County, CA < 3

2010-11-15T12:55:00.009+08:00

Santa Cruz

2010-11-08T13:04:00.003+08:00

NORCAL Views

2010-11-08T12:48:00.005+08:00

disposable camera

2010-11-08T07:24:00.003+08:00

tecoman/pasqualies/mexico city/boston.

photo by Brett.

San Francisco

2010-11-03T13:35:00.028+08:00

GO GIANTS

2010-11-03T13:04:00.000+08:00

Mexico Diaries : The Final

2010-11-03T10:58:00.020+08:00

Left pasqualies for newer environments, headed down to nexpa then onto alcapuco. some photos are just ones ive grabbed off other people like the ones of my throwing up after trying to surf after 2 beers, fuck that shit. by the stage i was ready to get the fuck out of mex and into Cali.
You got fucking rolled cunt

Mexico Diaries : The Expatriate

2010-10-27T09:51:00.009+08:00

"An expatriate (in abbreviated form, expat) is a person temporarily or permanently residing in a country and culture other than that of the person's upbringing or legal residence. The word comes from the Latin term expatriātus from ex("out of") and patriā the ablative case of patria ("country, fatherland"). This "Latin" term comes from the Greek words "exo" meaning outside, and "patrida" meaning country or fatherland."

We pulled up to the look out of a left hand point break in the state of Michoacan, we spotted one car parked down the bottom, that looked very settled in, we decided to drive down and check it out anyway.

As we pulled up next to the bloke, he approached us quit happily and introduced him self, a bit of small talk was exchanged both ways, he then went on to tell us his life story.

- Moved from San Fransisco 4 months ago with hes 21 year old girl friend (who was a former student of his, her mother is 1 year younger than him). She was from the local town

, and returned back with her new American boy friend, apparently the towns people thought she was crazy returning as she would know be a number 1 candidate for kid napping, appreeeently she has a rich uncle who owns a few restaurants in the states, her cousin wa

s kid napped and held at ransom, which the uncle paid off. So for her to come back to the town where people know she has rich relatives and even an American partner( pretty sure every Mexican thinks white people are automatically rich)is thought of to be crazy.

- He teaches media classes online to students from Russia and Thailand (they were the examples he gave us). He has satellite Internet set up, which he said was a big pain i

n the ass as he doesn't have a proper street address and had to put "the blue house" on the form.

- Has uncrowded waves every day, and that we were only the 4th group of surfers he had came across in the last for months.

- He told stories of locals being caught stealing and having their hands chopped off, people being taken up to the hills by banditos and being shot for not letting them over take

on the highway and kids shooting at passing cars for fun (as heard in the video below).

- Also talked a lot about teenage pregnancy. that the town was asking why she hasn't popped one out yet at 21, and that 15/16 was a legit age to start.

- Drove his car down from san fran with a co

uch on the roof.

A LIST OF THINGS HE WAS SICK OF IN AMERICA

- people

- traffic

- parking fines

- way to many rules man

After Story time, the fellas said it was about time they go for a surf and he should come out, he was rolled a fat ass joint then handed me and Brett his pouch and told us to help our self (we were staying in the car to take photos.. and smoke his weed).

He struggled to paddle out, caught 1 or 2 waves very wobbly.

Then come in (stacked it on the rocks walking in aswell), packed up his car, shade set up, dogs and left. I cant remember the mans name but he was one of the more interesting people Ive come across on my travels.

Mexico Diaries : Guadalajara

2010-10-19T07:30:00.019+08:00

Mexico Diaries : Brett Being A Staunch Cunt

2010-10-15T10:00:00.003+08:00

This is my travel partners encounter with a local dickhead. obviously he doesn't like to use paragraphs and i couldn't be bothered to edit it. so read ahead, each sentence should get faster and faster 'til your head cant take it anymore. enjoy

It was a weekend and was maximum 3ft, so there we heaps of locals Mexicans out and all the dudes who was hanging for it to get smaller because it was pretty sizey all week. I had be paddling round up and down the beach for at least an hour back and forth trying to get the good waves that I kept seeing on any particular bank. It’s that hot in the water so I got over it pretty quickly and just sat on the main bank and thought ill just wait my turn. I sat further out just waiting for one of the sets, and let the “main local dude” who thinks he’s killing it (in and out of the water) have at least 4-5 waves that I could have easily had and was waiting a decent time for. But I really couldn’t be bothered hassling and you don’t want to piss the locals of when you have a months stay in Mexico, word travels quickly. Was only the day after I heard about a group of Aussie east coast kids got there heads punched in by heavy locals the day they got to Puerto over and incident that happened 5 hours away at a different spot. Anyway I assumed I had let enough through that my turn was up, sure enough a nice right hand set started rolling through seeing that the bigger one was behind the first I gunned it over the back not snaking anyone. Spun round started paddling for it and then I see the “main local dude” gunning it across my line as if he wanted to take the left which I thought he was keen for, but nah he paddled pass me calling out what ever the fuck he was on about, and as I took off he did too right behind me calling me off. Fuck id never usually burn anyone, and I got no problem with local respect, but nah he was just being a toss and my anger kicked in and I burnt him.
Wave was shit anyway, only went so he didn’t think he could have any wave off me haha. So I pulled off after the bottom turn and first pump on the wave. Seeing the Mexican rode the rest of the wave in I was curious to see what was about to happen when he met me out the back thinking of what typical dropping in excuse I could come up with (there’s plenty). Pretty much as soon as he pulled of the back he’s was calling me out in broken English in front of the whole line up at the top of his lungs “OI WHERE YOU FROM” I was like oh shit, glad im not a seppo (American, which I only just found out this trip is short for septic tank, as in shit talker haha.) I waited till he got closer with his full macho paddle style and said “soy australiano” as I sat up on my board trying not to look like a pussy and backing down. He came up yelling some shit about no more waves for you or you do it again you out of Mexico, I didn’t really understand to much of what he said but he said it paddling pass me without stopping, weakness haha. Straight up I knew what he was trying to do, he knew he had nothing on me being that he snaked me and that I hadn’t paddled over and tried to steal waves straight up. So he was trying to make me look stupid in front of all the locals as if I did some hell gnarly burn on him so everyone would be off me and id get no waves. Pretty much trying to make it something it wasn’t, to scare me out the water and not come back. He was about 5 metres passed me and I paddled behind him calling him back even though he was trying to say its over I don’t want hear what you got to say, because he knew he had nothing. After the 4th time of yelling oi fucking listen to me he turned around and faced me. I was like you paddled straight past me and called me off! Remembering he had shithouse English I knew he didn’t really have much idea what I was on about so I started the hand gestures. I was hell worked up 30 seconds before so explains me chasing after him but then my brain realised the dude was twice the size of me in his supposed hometown, well at least home country. So I started to sway my story into a lie and said that I thought you wanted to go left and when I seen you I pulled off the wave. It took 3 or 4 times of trying to explain that when he stopped arguing and mumbled something in Mexican Spanish. I think he realised I wasn’t going to let it go and have him think he got one up on me in the water. After that he shook my hand and paddled off. Weird.
He lurks around where we are staying heaps, seems ok now but never has a one on one convo with me just smart ass looks and cheeky remarks. Don’t trust any Mexicans!!
Haven’t seen him in the water since, so will be good to see what happens next time we paddle for the same wave.

BRETT BEING A STAUNCH CUNT

Mexico Diaries : Explanation

2010-10-13T07:10:00.001+08:00

Day Whatever..

Well keeping track of what day it is sort of faded quickly, its not really as eventful as it might seem. for the last week its been groundhog day every day.. right now, i have no problem with that.

A standard day consists of the following

- Wake up to someone out side my window going " yeah thought it was going to be bigger today, but its still big" " yeah might go out after breakfast". "why the fuck they towing into that, its like 4 ft" "hows that left" "yeah it always works" "man the banks are shit" "what swell direction does this place need" "hows that french bird doing the downwards dog over there" ect ect.

- I get up walk out the door sit on a chair and watch waves for 10 - 15 minutes. decide weather ill go out now or go have a coffee and something light to eat. usually i go with the coffee as I'm pretty lazy and can feel over surfed quite easily these days.

- Now I'm riding a stand up i tend to head down the beach a fair bit cause its a bit smaller and learner friendly. going back to the basics is kind of hard but its the only way ill learn. fuck around for 2 hours or whatever till the onshore comes in then come back to my room.

- By now its midday onshore and the wind rarely backs down once its in so eat, read, watch movies.. do whatever i can do kill a few hours.

- Usually go into town later in the arvo, hit up the net and taco joint. tacos are so fucking good.

- Come back to room around 9.30 and start playing cards, the game is asshole and its got to the point where people are ready to murder each other. 5 main players the rules are solid and its dog eat dog. when you have nothing else to do games like that can get pretty serious.

- Go to bed.. do it again.

See the days are defiantly not the most action packed but fuck it beats being home working. Oh yeah and i haven't even drank a carona.

Mexico Diaries : Some Photos

2010-10-12T07:52:00.008+08:00

Photos from the strippers weren't aloud after a group vote. which is fair i guess.

more stories to come.. "Brett Ayers burning locals", "johnny being kidnapped and buying his way out with a ps2 and xbox", "uno taco".