Day Whatever..
Well keeping track of what day it is sort of faded quickly, its not really as eventful as it might seem. for the last week its been groundhog day every day.. right now, i have no problem with that.
A standard day consists of the following
- Wake up to someone out side my window going " yeah thought it was going to be bigger today, but its still big" " yeah might go out after breakfast". "why the fuck they towing into that, its like 4 ft" "hows that left" "yeah it always works" "man the banks are shit" "what swell direction does this place need" "hows that french bird doing the downwards dog over there" ect ect.
- I get up walk out the door sit on a chair and watch waves for 10 - 15 minutes. decide weather ill go out now or go have a coffee and something light to eat. usually i go with the coffee as I'm pretty lazy and can feel over surfed quite easily these days.
- Now I'm riding a stand up i tend to head down the beach a fair bit cause its a bit smaller and learner friendly. going back to the basics is kind of hard but its the only way ill learn. fuck around for 2 hours or whatever till the onshore comes in then come back to my room.
- By now its midday onshore and the wind rarely backs down once its in so eat, read, watch movies.. do whatever i can do kill a few hours.
- Usually go into town later in the arvo, hit up the net and taco joint. tacos are so fucking good.
- Come back to room around 9.30 and start playing cards, the game is asshole and its got to the point where people are ready to murder each other. 5 main players the rules are solid and its dog eat dog. when you have nothing else to do games like that can get pretty serious.
- Go to bed.. do it again.
See the days are defiantly not the most action packed but fuck it beats being home working. Oh yeah and i haven't even drank a carona.
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